Thursday, October 25, 2012

BOOK OF VETERINARY HOMEOPATHY

FAST FORWARD TO THE CURE
Pro-Version 2.0

 

$40.00
Buy Now

How to Speed Your Pets Healing Time by 1/4 to 1/2 or More!

This is the only reference dedicated to instruction in the advanced methods of 'Dynamic Dosing' in the homeopathic treatment of animals. This easy to follow, fast forward guide, takes all the guess work out of how to dose, what potency to choose and how often to give a remedy. Following the methods of 'Dynamic Dosing', can strongly improve the success of a homeopathic treatment and can reduce the animals healing time dramatically.

Whether you have a dog, cat, horse, bird, or pet rat, this guide will be indispensable.

Published in an eBook format that you can instantly download and start using now. Laid out for easy on screen viewing and accessibility, it can be used on any computer, laptop, iPad or tablet that can read .pdf files. You can also print single pages or the entire volume, for a hard copy you can take anywhere.

‘Fast Forward to the Cure’ Pro-Version 2.0, contains a Veterinary Materia Medica, Therapeutic Veterinary Repertories and a Complete Guide to Dose and Potency in the Treatment of Dogs, Cats, Horses, Birds, Farm Animals and Wildlife…

WHAT’S INSIDE?

14 Chapters and 872 pages!
  • Veterinary Materia Medica (Remedies and Their Symptoms)
  • Homeopathic Treatments (Rx Ailment/Disease Index and Remedies)
  • Therapeutic Veterinary Repertories for Dogs, Cats, Horses, Birds, Farm Animals and Wildlife
  • Successful Techniques on How to Take a Case
  • How to Use a Repertory to Find the Remedy
  • Printable Case Taking, Repertorization and Observation Forms
  • How to Choose the Correct Potency
  • When to Raise the Potency
  • How to Give the Dose to Animals
  • The Methods of 'Dynamic Dosing'
  • When to Change a Remedy
  • Preparation and Dosing Instructions for: Dry Pills, Liquid Remedies, and The Split Dose Method in the C and LM Potencies
  • How to Preserve a Remedy
  • How to Prepare a Remedy for Olfaction (inhalation dosing)
  • Skin Dosing (transdermal applications)
  • How to Use the Plussing Method of dosing in the Treatment of Cancer
  • Homeopathic Treatment Guidelines for Dosing Neonates (young animals) and Seniors
  • Homeopathic Methods for Treating Acute Diseases
  • How to Make Your Own, Homeopathic Topical Creams, Gels, Ointments, Lotions and Oils (Hypercal, Hypericum, Calendula)
  • Materia Medica of the Nosodes and How to Use Nosodes in the Prevention of Disease
  • How to Give Homeopathic Animal Vaccines
  • Schuessler's Cell Salts (Nutritional Homeopathy). Cell Salt Materia Medica, Biochemic First Aid, How to Dose the Cell Salts to Pets
  • Printable Illustrations
  • Full color, Printable Anatomy Charts, for Dogs, Cats, Horse and Birds!
To view the website and chapter excerpts from the book Click Here.

Tuesday, September 4, 2012

Advocate for Saving Dogs

A Letter from a Shelter Manager - anonymous 

I think our society needs a huge "Wake-up" call. As a shelter manager, I am going to share a little insight with you all...a view from the inside if you will.

First off, all of you breeders/sellers should be made to work in the "back" of an animal shelter for just one day. Maybe if you saw the life drain from a few sad, lost, confused eyes, you would change your mind about breeding and selling to people you don't even know.

That puppy you just sold will most likely end up in my shelter when it's not a cute little puppy anymore. So how would you feel if you knew that there's about a 90% chance that dog will never walk out of the shelter it is going to be dumped at? Purebred or not! About 50% of all of the dogs that are "owner surrenders" or "strays", that come into my shelter are purebred dogs.

The most common excuses I hear are; "We are moving and we can't take our dog (or cat)." Really? Where are you moving too that doesn't allow pets? Or they say "The dog got bigger than we thought it would". How big did you think a German Shepherd would get? "We don't have time for her". Really? I work a 10-12 hour day and still have time for my 6 dogs! "She's tearing up our yard". How about making her a part of your family? They always tell me "We just don't want to have to stress about finding a place for her we know she'll get adopted, she's a good dog".

Odds are your pet won't get adopted & how stressful do you think being in a shelter is? Well, let me tell you, your pet has 72 hours to find a new family from the moment you drop it off. Sometimes a little longer if the shelter isn't full and your dog manages to stay completely healthy. If it sniffles, it dies. Your pet will be confined to a small run/kennel in a room with about 25 other barking or crying animals. It will have to relieve itself where it eats and sleeps. It will be depressed and it will cry constantly for the family that abandoned it. If your pet is lucky, I will have enough volunteers in that day to take him/her for a walk. If I don't, your pet won't get any attention besides having a bowl of food slid under the kennel door and the waste sprayed out of its pen with a high-powered hose. If your dog is big, black or any of the "Bully" breeds (pit bull, rottie, mastiff, etc) it was pretty much dead when you walked it through the front door.

Those dogs just don't get adopted. It doesn't matter how 'sweet' or 'well behaved' they are.

If your dog doesn't get adopted within its 72 hours and the shelter is full, it will be destroyed. If the shelter isn't full and your dog is good enough, and of a desirable enough breed it may get a stay of execution, but not for long . Most dogs get very kennel protective after about a week and are destroyed for showing aggression. Even the sweetest dogs will turn in this environment. If your pet makes it over all of those hurdles chances are it will get kennel cough or an upper respiratory infection and will be destroyed because shelters just don't have the funds to pay for even a $100 treatment.

Here's a little euthanasia 101 for those of you that have never witnessed a perfectly healthy, scared animal being "put-down".

First, your pet will be taken from its kennel on a leash. They always look like they think they are going for a walk happy, wagging their tails. Until they get to "The Room", every one of them freaks out and puts on the brakes when we get to the door. It must smell like death or they can feel the sad souls that are left in there, it's strange, but it happens with every one of them. Your dog or cat will be restrained, held down by 1 or 2 vet techs depending on the size and how freaked out they are. Then a euthanasia tech or a vet will start the process. They will find a vein in the front leg and inject a lethal dose of the "pink stuff". Hopefully your pet doesn't panic from being restrained and jerk. I've seen the needles tear out of a leg and been covered with the resulting blood and been deafened by the yelps and screams. They all don't just "go to sleep", sometimes they spasm for a while, gasp for air and defecate on themselves.

When it all ends, your pets corpse will be stacked like firewood in a large freezer in the back with all of the other animals that were killed waiting to be picked up like garbage. What happens next? Cremated? Taken to the dump? Rendered into pet food? You'll never know and it probably won't even cross your mind. It was just an animal and you can always buy another one, right?

I hope that those of you that have read this are bawling your eyes out and can't get the pictures out of your head I deal with everyday on the way home from work.

I hate my job, I hate that it exists & I hate that it will always be there unless you people make some changes and realize that the lives you are affecting go much farther than the pets you dump at a shelter.

Between 9 and 11 MILLION animals die every year in shelters and only you can stop it. I do my best to save every life I can but rescues are always full, and there are more animals coming in everyday than there are homes.

My point to all of this DON'T BREED OR BUY WHILE SHELTER PETS DIE!

Hate me if you want to. The truth hurts and reality is what it is. I just hope I maybe changed one persons mind about breeding their dog, taking their loving pet to a shelter, or buying a dog. I hope that someone will walk into my shelter and say "I saw this and it made me want to adopt". THAT WOULD MAKE IT WORTH IT.

~ UNKNOWN AUTHOR

Friday, August 31, 2012

Herbal Support for Aging Horses

During the “golden years” the process of aging usually means there will gradually be a slowing down and the bodily  functions will be less effective. Supportive herbs along with nutrition and proper exercise can really help to balance the process of aging, helping to keep older horses healthy and sprightly.


Below in preferential order you will find the herbs most suitable for an elderly horse. An example treatment would be to choose at least one herb from each category and blend them together. Feed about 40g daily to a horse (25g for a pony) of the blend, and it shouldn’t be too long before you see a difference and results!

Category 1) Circulatory stimulants. These herbs will help with thermoregulation they also encourage blood flow  to the extremities. They are an immense ally in the support of balancing bodily function, and will aid in relieving conditions like arthritis. They also encourage hair and hoof growth by increasing blood flow to the hair follicles, corium and deep into the joints. Efficient circulation will also assist in regulating the body temperature. Healing herbs in this category are Nettle (which is a particularly good blood cleanser, stimulant and hair tonic) and Hawthorn (a superior herbal cardiac tonic for horses, that is rich in healthy bioflavenoids).

Category 2) Equine Digestive Support. Even with regular expert dental care the older horse may still have trouble digesting his food correctly, and this can create many related health problems, including equine laminitis. There are many herbs that could fall within this category’s description but for the purpose of assisting elderly horses in general I’ve created two sub-categories (S-C) in this group. When making a blend be sure to pick one herb from each sub-category. S-C (i) Bitters. These herbs support the liver and stimulate enzyme production and bile flow so are great digestive stimulants. The first pick should be Devil’s Claw, as it is also an excellent anti-inflammatory, so will also help reduce stiffness throughout the body. Burdock root is also a bitters. S-C (ii) Demulcents. These herbs soothe and protect the gastric lining thus encouraging efficient assimilation. They are usually also very nutritive. My choice would be Fenugreek seed which helps to increase the appetite and is an excellent source of vitamin E; other good choices would be Slippery Elm bark powder, Licorice root and Comfrey leaf (which is also a great source of vitamin B12).

Category 3) General Health Maintenance. These herbs are healthy for any horse on a regular basis; elderly horses are certainly no exception! Rose hips are a great tonic. They are a particularly rich source of copper, vitamin C and bioflavenoids. Garlic and Green Pumpkin seed are traditionally used to reduce worm burdens in the gut (ground pumpkin seeds will also keep your dog worm free), and Garlic is very well known for its use as an immune support. Kelp is very nourishing and contains a wealth of easily assimilable minerals, vitamins, iodine and amino-acids and will keep the thyroid in tune.

Category 4) Diuretics. These herbs assist the kidneys and increase the flow of urine, thus helping to remove toxins from the body. They also encourage regular water intake. They work well in combination with bitter herb to aid in cleansing the body and restoring proper function. Dandelion is the best choice as it helps to replace and maintain the potassium, sodium and silica levels that would otherwise be leached out of the body (medical diuretics do not, hence they have the potential to cause kidney damage and heart malfunction). A combination of celery seed with equal proportions of juniper berries is also a natural balanced diuretic. These herbs can be alternated in their use.

You will find that a combination of herbs from these categories, will work synergistically together, to help an aging horse to attain greater mobility, improve disease resistance and maintain a healthy weight and improve thermoregulation. Given the right fuel, aging horses can still have the dignity of a glossy coat, bright eyes, better digestion and a spring in their step!

For more information on natural equine health care and herbal treatments for horses visit Pet Remedy Chart: http://petremedycharts.com/Horse%20Charts/Horse.html